...1 million steps 2 freedom...

November 30, 2011 6.00 a.m. Alone in the kitchen of the albergue in Palas and it's raining heavily. As it was in the beginning! Have a long time of silence before moving on. Federico the young Italian comes in. He doesn't speak. Mark, Becky pray with me for my foot. They do this spontaneously from time to time and on one occasion Mark bent down to touch and bless my foot. I really appreciate this. Before leaving we have breakfast in the nearby restaurant. We meet a couple from Sweden who have to return home and cannot complete the Camino this time. That has to be very hard. I couldn't bear the idea of not being able to finish at this stage. And yet, if that were to happen it would be the real Camino - giving up when you don't want to! I've met a few people along the way who had to abandon their own plan and I think of Christine who had to return home because her mother is ill. 2.15 p.m. A restaurant in Melide. My foot is in uproar! Progress is very slow

November 29, 2011 "I consider that the sufferings of this present time are not worth comparing to the glory that is to be revealed in Christ Jesus." (Romans 8) My foot is getting worse but at times at least I'm able to outsing the pain and in spite of it I feel an overwhelming happiness! Today my refrain is Walk A Mile In My Shoes - it motivates, keeps me going. This morning Yesouk said she was meeting the "old" Spanish guy Jose to go with him by taxi. He's probably the same age as me and I said to her that he would not be flattered to be referred to as "old". With that Mark called out to me saying "you are the young Irish priest!". Later someone commented on how I get up so early in the mornings. It gives the impression that I'm a morning person but I had to confess that this is not usually the case and that I need time and silence in the morning before I get going. Mark said he's the same and I said it&

November 28, 2011  I slept badly because the dorm was too hot and the snoring too loud. Some extraordinary sounds! They are somewhat blocked out by putting on my earphones and listening to music from my phone. Hallelujah by Michael W Smith always succeeds in both uplifting and soothing my spirit. It's 5.00 a.m. and I'm downstairs in the reception area where I will disturb no one. The first birds are singing. Though my foot is in a lot of pain I feel in me the freshness that I had at 17, the excitement of a new community. Also the power of solitude and the importance of loving without a clinging attachment. Nothing so far has become clear about the question of going to work with Ceili community but the daydreams I have are of Shankill and I suspect that this is where God is leading me. Back upstairs I quietly drag my belongings out of the dorm and into the shower room. Getting my bag to close is proving difficult and the tall,  young Korean lady says &q

November 27, 2011 Sarria  "...we basically remain without shelter, under way and open until the final encounter, with all the humble blessedness and painful pleasure of this openness" (Fr. Alfred Delp SJ) Yesterday was spent alone and it had an extraordinary level of silence, beginning with another beautiful dawn and the sun shone the whole day as I walked through mountains, valleys and small farming villages. Alone, except for breakfast in a little village with Brend. As far back as Logrono I had said I would be with him for his birthday but with the pain in my foot I knew I wouldn't make it as far as Samos where he was headed. So I invited him for breakfast as a birthday treat. It was lovely but it had a certain loneliness in it because it was like we were saying goodbye. He looked directly at me and said in a wistful way "will you not come with me to Samos?" and I wished to God I could but knew I wouldn't be able for that distance. Maybe if

November 26, 2011  The church in Ocebreiro (Photo by Mark Teiwes) "I will betroth you to myself for ever, betroth you with integrity and justice, with tenderness and love; I will betroth you to myself in faithfulness and you will come to know the Lord." (Hosea 2:21-22) We had 30k walk today, with about 10k up a steady hill. My foot survived it with the help of Mark's stick and a lot of ibuprofen.  Brend likes happy music and so some Abba songs were sung. What a wonderful day - weather, mountains, colours, animals and arriving here just after dark singing 'Jingle Bells'. We were Mark, Becky, Brend, Kathrin and me. It was during the 10k climb that Brend looked at me with such concern and said "if you are not able to walk, we will carry you!"  The Franciscan church was open so we went in to hear the sound of 'Bless The Lord My Soul' being played. Mark started to sing it and we all joined in. Beautiful. In front of a side alta

November 25, 2011 "We trust the holy signature inscribed upon our temples"  (Magnificat Morning Prayer) I was up early and had some quiet time wrapped in a blanket down in the living area and managed to get a small fire going. The only other pilgrim apart from the three of us was a Jorge who is from Spain and I think he is in the army. Mark, Becky and I set off from Molinaseca in the fog, singing every so often along the way, stopping a little while in a church in Ponferrada and later when the sun shone we sat in a park to have a little Thanksgiving picnic. There we shared again on the things we are grateful for. The immediate gratitude in me is that I am here and now living the Camino and all that it entails - the journey itself, the people, the solitude, the pain. I miss my family and close friends and am grateful for them in a huge way, grateful for this sabbatical. When we got to Villafranca and were settling down in our lovely dormitory - singl

November 23, 2011 St. Columban This day God sends me strength as my steersman, Might to uphold me, wisdom as guide, Your eyes are watchful, your ears are listening, Your lips are speaking, friend at my side. God's way is my way, God's shield is round me God's host defends me, saving from ill. Angels of heaven drive from me always All that would harm me. Stand by me still" We sang this hymn as students in the '70's to the air of 'Morning Has Broken'. It's another expression of St. Patrick's Breastplate which is appropriate for the feast of St. Columban who was one of the great Irish missionary monks. It's 7.30 a.m. and I'm alone in the living/dining area of the albergue in Foncebadon. It's old world with a large stone fireplace, long wooden tables, stone floor and a shop. It could be my Granny's house in Raford or a place in Aran. The hospitalero has just come in and is cleaning out the fireplace. M

November 22, 2011 St. Cecilia  We've been telling Brend that he should watch 'Brother Sun, Sister Moon' because he is a Francis-like person and this morning I greeted him "good morning Brother Son" to which he replied immediately "good morning Sister Moon". We laughed and he said "well such a greeting needed a response!" He, Jacquie, Aelfred and Kathrin have gone off to Manjarin to live the simple life in an albergue which is basically a hut run by a man who claims to be the last descendant of the Knights Templars. The place has no running water, toilets or electricity. They asked me to go but it's a bit too far for me now and anyway I've done the simple living experience in Tanzania when I stayed in the homes of parishioners in the villages. I've arrived in the tiny village of Foncebadon at an altitude of 1,400 metres, a quaint, almost ruined place. It was a steady, demanding climb to get here. With Brend gone ahead the c

November 21, 2011  Every day there are lovely moments of thoughtfulness and kindness. This morning before I left the albergue Brend came to give me chocolate, a bun and an orange for my journey. At breakfast Mark gave me a high-five and a hug. Sergio treated us to a really nice breakfast to set us on our way. The first three hours were spent alone. There wasn't a stir in the air, except for the birds in the corn fields. The colours are brown, beige and a grey sky. Met Jose Miguel for the first time and stopped in a market town for a coffee. Jose always looks happy!  My backpack is causing some concern - not so much for me because it isn't that heavy but my companions think it could be more comfortable, would be more comfortable if I had something to balance it around my waist. There's a gang of them up ahead of me as walking by wheat fields on the right and a railway track on the left. Jaqcuie emerges from a field with her belt in hand, saying it might

  November 20, 2011 Sunday  I got up at 6am so I could go to Mass in San Isodoro. The nun preparing breakfast gave me coffee before leaving. Aelfred, Lorna & Miguel were also up. Bilal emerged looking frail. I urged him to eat properly because he's a big guy who needs plenty of nourishment. Leaving the albergue at the same time were Christine and Walter whom I had met for the first time yesterday. I thought they were a couple but they are mother and son, she being Korean born who moved to San Francisco where Walter was born. I guided them to the way out of the city and then went to Mass which was very beautiful. It was still dark and raining when I came out from Mass and it was hard to see the yellow arrows of the Camino, so I went for coffee and waited for the light. Later when I came on Christine & Walter she asked if I'm a priest and when I asked how she knew she said "you have an aura!" Mmmm? Around midday when I paused for a rest

November 19, 2011 It was a short walk of 13k from Villarente to Leon, Brend and I travelling together. Ramon from Spain walked with us into Leon and showed us the way to the Benedictine Monastery where we were staying. It's Ramon's fourth time doing the Camino. A nice man who doesn't believe in politics and will not vote in tomorrow's general election. At the albergue we are greeted very warmly by Aelfred who looks really well after three days rest here. The place is run by Benedictine nuns and Miguel informs the sister at reception that I'm a priest. She gives me information about Mass. There's a great atmosphere here with a lot of young people, including Bilal who also has rested here for three days. It's a beautiful city to take time out in - even if it's raining. But I've no desire yet to take time out. I have my first meeting with Daniela from Switzerland who has a great smile and is very welcoming. You get the feeling that everyo

November 18, 2011 Puente Villarente  I was so tired this morning and didn't think I'd get too far. Brend and I together left the village of El Burgo with a beautiful sunrise behind us. We get on well - Brend and I. There is something very pure and beautiful about him. It's not for nothing that other pilgrims refer to him as Jesus. By lunchtime I had gained energy and had little difficulty making the rest of the journey. Around midday we spent a little time in the church in Mansilla and met up with Jacquie outside where we had a little lunch. Samuel passed us as we walked across the bridge - Puenta Villarente. Lorna had arrived ahead of us in the lovely hostel in  which I twisted my right foot on a step. Brend had been talking about his journey home at the end of the Camino. He was planning to go all the way to Holland by bus. I suggested that it would be easier, quicker and maybe even cheaper to go by plane. He had never flown and didn't know the mechanics