23. ASTORGA

November 21, 2011 

Every day there are lovely moments of thoughtfulness and kindness. This morning before I left the albergue Brend came to give me chocolate, a bun and an orange for my journey. At breakfast Mark gave me a high-five and a hug. Sergio treated us to a really nice breakfast to set us on our way.

The first three hours were spent alone. There wasn't a stir in the air, except for the birds in the corn fields. The colours are brown, beige and a grey sky. Met Jose Miguel for the first time and stopped in a market town for a coffee. Jose always looks happy! 

My backpack is causing some concern - not so much for me because it isn't that heavy but my companions think it could be more comfortable, would be more comfortable if I had something to balance it around my waist. There's a gang of them up ahead of me as walking by wheat fields on the right and a railway track on the left. Jaqcuie emerges from a field with her belt in hand, saying it might help my situation and it certainly did. She tells me to keep it. That's how good she is, how thoughtful people are out here.

Puente de Órbigo is the longest bridge on the Camino and it is very long. We were in a very happy mood. Brend, Jacquie and I had lunch together on a bench before I took off for some solitude, stopping under a tree at about three to celebrate Mass out of sight. What peace I felt there. The gospel reading was the widow's mite - the woman who gave two small coins, all she had to live on. This has for many years been a significant symbol of my life - the little I have to offer is my all and nothing more is required, there is nothing more to give.

I passed by three old farmers and their dogs sitting by a cross and further on one of the most interesting people on the way - David from Barcelona who gave up all to be here. He lives in a little shack, at the front of which he has drinks and some food for passing pilgrims. I stopped there for a short while. He reminds me of a sketch I drew a couple of years ago of King David the Shepherd. Just like him in my eyes. This is a place where I would like to remain. Before leaving he hugged me and when I wished him well with his mission he replied "it is not a mission; I am simply present!" Amen to that!

Brend and I meet up on the descent to Astorga - a lot of miles - on a beautiful evening. He also is taken by David, the simplicity of his life, his generosity. It can happen after meeting someone who inspires us that we feel somewhat diminished, feel our own littleness. But I reminded Brend that he himself is also very special, not to forget this when he looks at other inspiring people.

We talked a lot about birth, death, sleep and sadness. And the inner chaos that we experience. I told Brend that when I struggle with my own chaos I go back to the beginning of the Book of Genesis when the Spirit hovered over the original chaos bringing order and light out of the darkness. In times like that I put myself under the Holy Spirit so that peace, order, harmony, light might take over. Not instant or magical but gradual, effective if I persist. It is lovely now to be in a time and space without chaos.

Oh how weary my legs when we arrive at the city and still we have an awful steep hill to climb before getting to the albergue. Everyone else is there ahead of us. I share a tiny little dormitory with Kathrin from Germany and Aelfred.

It's a beautiful city and I need new socks! Lorna and others are cooking dinner and I buy some chocolate for desert. A noisy, lovely, happy dinner with everyone talking at the same time! Beatriz and Joan (a man's name) and his father are there, the two men looking like free spirited hippies. Beatriz is very glamorous and doesn't seem to fit the bill but she and Joan are great friends who are really happy in each other's company.