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32. SANTIAGO



December 2, 2011

Got up at 4.00 a.m.while all others were sleeping, had coffee and chocolate from the machine and set out on the final leg of the journey. The reason for leaving so early was to give myself a head start in the hope of reaching Santiago Cathedral for the pilgrim Mass at noon. The others would follow and catch up.

The first few hours were mainly through woodland and darkness. The occasional clearing in the woods, the parting of the clouds revealed the magnificent starry sky before dawn but otherwise it rained heavily and the going was tough enough with the handicap of my limping foot. The guiding yellow arrows were hard to see and I had to pause often and gaze intently before catching sight of the right direction.

Travelling like that alone through the dark woods was a unique experience. There's more than a Small Measure of Peace in a haunting kind of way. Mark gave me his headlight, without which the early part of the journey would have been impossible. I looked like a miner or a Martian! It was wonderful when passing near the airport to experience a jet coming in to land just above the tree tops - the sight of it and the roar! I love it! Though I'm not fond of noise at any time, I love the sound of an air-plane.

At 8.00 a.m. I stopped in a posh hotel to get coffee! I was beyond caring about the fact that I was totally under-dressed for such a place! Vanity had gone completely out the window by now!

Around 10.00 a.m. Michel from France caught up with me, delighted to see me on me feet! He is 75 years old and extremely fit and a very devout Catholic. He gave me a big hug and walked with me to the Mount of Joy. Today he said I should con-celebrate at the Mass in the Cathedral. There would be no problem.

At about 11.15 I hobbled into the city, meeting a Swiss pilgrim who lives in Cork! Small world. He has travelled here by train, boat and walking of course. He thinks flying - especially with Ryanair - is inappropriate for a pilgrim. I had toyed with the idea of returning to England by boat but had run out of time. Next time!

Arriving in Santiago after 500 miles I felt strangely empty and out of sorts and the echoing sound of pipes being played under an archway did not help. I didn't want to be alone at this point and there was still no sign of the others, so I went into a cafe to wait. Mark, Becky and Lorna arrived about half an hour later, with enough time to have a coffee before going to the Cathedral.

Inside the Cathedral we all hugged each other and as it was five minutes to twelve I took off in search of the sacristy. The others didn't know where I'd gone. When I got to the sacristy the priest welcomed me warmly and asked if I would say my part of the Eucharistic Prayer in English. The sacristan put an alb and vestments on me and when I pointed down to my dirty muddy boots he said "you are a pilgrim" And so I went straight from the Camino to the altar as a pilgrim priest wearing my dirty pilgrim boots! These boots symbolize the whole journey of life and it is in these boots that we are welcomed into the Presence of God. Shiny shoes are not necessary!

The sight of me brought tears to the eyes of some my fellow pilgrims and though most might not be Catholics or believers they were proud of this moment and of our belonging to each other. The priest up there was not a stranger, I was theirs. As well as Becky, Mark and Lorna there were Kathrin, Michel, Jose (the older), Andreu, Daniela and Olivier.

One thing I ask of the LORD;
this I seek:
To dwell in the house of the LORD
all the days of my life,
That I may gaze on the loveliness of the LORD
and contemplate his temple.
(Psalm 27 from the Mass)

At communion time they all came up in a line to me - some to receive, others to be blessed. They were beaming and I felt like a proud father. It was an incredible moment, the memory of which still brings a huge surge of emotion and tears. Mark crossed his arms over his chest indicating he wanted a blessing. He was beaming and later said that this moment was the completion of the Camino for him.

After Communion came the famous Botafumeiro - the giant thurible which hangs from the ceiling of the Cathedral and is swung up the length of the church. Not the most significant moment but a thrill all the same because I got to put the incense into it - two soup ladles full - producing a great cloud of smoke. The smoke of incense represents the prayers of the people. Our group were delighted that I got to do this bit.

We were all excited when Mass finished, a childlike joy in which we kissed and hugged each other and there was such delight that I had participated in the Mass. We prayed at the tomb of St. James, embraced the statue and got our Camino Certs in the office.

There was lunch afterwards in a restaurant and even though we are not leaving Santiago for another couple of days, there's a palpable sense of ending and parting not being far away. There is a love between us that has surprised me and this can never be taken from us.

On that day the deaf shall hear
the words of a book;
And out of gloom and darkness,
the eyes of the blind shall see.
The lowly will ever find joy in the LORD,
and the poor rejoice in the Holy One of Israel.

(Isaiah 29)

In the afternoon I went out looking in vain for information about the bus to Muxia - the place where the movie 'The Way' ends. In an internet cafe I printed out my boarding pass for Monday's flight and when I checked my email there was a message from Mark giving me the bus times for Muxia. Nice one.

On my way back to the albergue I ran into Olivier who was ecstatic about the Mass and thanked me for bringing Jesus to him. As we were talking, Cornel arrived - our first meeting since he was sick in the albergue a couple of weeks ago.



Comments

  1. Beautiful Eamonn, thank you for bringing back those wonderful memories so poetically. I can hardly believe it was a year ago today when we stood in the cathedral with tears staining our smiling faces as we watched and listened to you administering the Pilgrims mass, as a true pilgrim, from the camino to the altar. We were so proud, honored and delighted for you and for us, for all the pilgrims that recognised you it was indeed the most precious and sureal moment of the entire journey.

    Thank you xxxx

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  2. Thank you so much for sharing this today. Brought tears to my eyes. - Jamie

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